Assynt Peninsula

Assynt is not strictly a peninsula, more a distinct area of low glacially scoured hills, riven with lochs of all sizes, by the sea. These hills and small lakes are known as “cnoc and lochan”. Inland, isolated sandstone massifs emerge from the surrounding cnoc and lochan, bog and moorland.

The scenery is as a result unusual and very beautiful: great craggy masses above rough purple hills, lakes, moorland and bogs; and the sea feeling its way in for miles between low, heavily eroded hills. It somehow combines the wild and unrelenting with the unexpectedly mellow.

Geologically, this is an exceptionally ancient and interesting area. These worn little hills are Lewisian Gneiss, some of the oldest rock on the planet, and the mountains are mostly all that the glaciers left of a thick layer of younger sandstone. Wherever you walk is likely to be stepping on a geological masterclass.

Wildlife is various, from deer to otter to golden and (if you are lucky) sea eagles, to dolphins, seals and a multitude of birds in the sea.

The area has a romantic Highland history, but was wild and dirt poor in old times. Clearances took their toll here, and you will see melancholy traces of a lost way of life.

Walks vary between:

• peak bagging;
• old tracks; and
• shorter walks in special places

That said, just look at any map and you will be able to create your own menu: there are fantastic walks of all shapes and sizes throughout the area.

A keen walker would want to take in a variety of walks and terrains, although an ascent of one of the great Assynt peaks is a must.

Peak bagging

This is an area where you need to walk high, at least once, to appreciate fully this marvellous landscape.   Some of these are Munros, although many of the most interesting climbs are not. Once again, you have a huge selection to choose from:

Suilven: the area’s, and many would argue Britain’s, most distinctive mountain, a   remarkable isolated sandstone cathedral which rises abruptly from the beautiful lakes and rough, broken cnoc and lochan and bog that typify the area. It is remarkable that a mountain that is “only” 731m can have such presence. The views from its top are exceptionally interesting and beautiful. It is not an easy climb, as it is remote from any road, so both the approaches, from near Lochinver to the west and near Elphin to the east, are long and are also boggy in places. The summit ridge is reasonably easy once you have finished the tough scramble to the saddle in the middle. 8-10 hours.

Stac Pollaidh: while “only” 612m, this superb solo sandstone patisade exemplifies how remarkable Scotland’s in-theory-small mountains can be: in a mere 3 + hours you get a fascination-packed thriller of a walk. The views all around are as gorgeous and thrilling as you can find, and give you a full lesson on the area’s idiosyncratic geography and ‘logy. 

Ben More Coigach and the other grand mountains of the Coigach peninsula. To be written up. Ideas, suggestions and photos welcome!

Canisp: To be written up. Ideas, suggestions and photos welcome!

Quinag: a majestic mass looming over the sea loch in the north-west. Superb views.

Ben More Assynt/ Conival: The highest mountains in Assynt, Ben More at 998m. Fine, dramatic views (although not as exceptional scenery as further west) and a good, long walk (5-7hrs) from Inchnadamph. Hard work. [Rough 271]

Great hill tracks

Scotland’s ancient hill tracks – some of them drovers’ roads, along which cattle would be driven – provide outstanding walking, often over long distances. This can require to-ing and fro-ing, although you can create marvellous circuits – for a day or longer – with combinations of tracks. Some of the best are:

Lochinver (Inverkirkaig) to Elphin via the Fionn Loch, passing close under the south face of famous Suilven.

Lochinver to Elphin via Glen Canisp, passing close under the north face of famous Suilven.

Lochinver to Little Assynt via Glen Canisp (this then goes on the Inchnadamph, but the way is harder to find and involves a potentially difficult river crossing near the end).

The north shore of Loch Assynt to two alternative spots on the beautiful north coast via dramatic Glen Leireag.

Scottish Hill Tracks, published by The Scottish Rights of Way and Access Society (ScotWays) gives excellent information on these trails, and is a must-buy, and can be got from ScotWays as well as bookshops.

Other great walks

Almost every glen is a gem: you need do no more than have a good study of the map to find a fabulous walk, often improbably empty of humankind. There are numerous lakes and oddities to check out, too.

Falls of Kirkaig/Fionn Loch: [Rough 270] This lovely walk ascends the Kirkaig river glen to the 20m waterfall and on to gorgeous Fionn Loch, directly below the magnificent mass that is famous Suilven. 9km return, 3 hrs. Justly popular. Starts at Inverkirkaig, ascending through attractive woodland by the river. It emerges into heathery moorland and grand big-country views. You can carry on for a Suilven ascent, or on along the Inverkirkaig to Elphin hill track (see above), of which this is the opening section.

Old Man of Stoer: [Leaflet 1] to be written up. Ideas, suggestions and photos welcome!

Strath Canaird to Achvraie, along the superb south coast of the Coigach peninsula.

Lochinver to Achmelvich: [leaflet 3, Rough 271] to be written up. Ideas, suggestions and photos welcome!

Inchnadamph to Traligill Caves: [leaflet 9] to be written up. Ideas, suggestions and photos welcome!

Bone Caves: [leaflet 8] to be written up. Ideas, suggestions and photos welcome!

Knockan Crag: an hour-or-so trail which lead round and up above the famous crags and provides insights into geological history, at the heart of the Geopark. And fabulous views towards the Assynt Mountains.

You should have a compass (and relevant skills) with you‎ if you are heading into remote inland areas if there is any risk of low cloud or fog.

While the above are in Walkopedia’s view the best walks, there are plenty of others, and you can find plenty to suit your taste and time.

This page is at an early stage of development. Please help us by making suggestions and sending photos! Thank you!