Glyderau

This long and convoluted east-west curving ridge of rough mountains and tremendous cliffs looms between the Llanberis and Nant Ffrancon/valleys, at the heart of Snowdonia and one of its key massifs, gazing sternly south-west towards the Snowdon massif and north towards the Carneddau.

The main summits are (west to east) Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach and smaller but handsome Y Foel Goch. To the north-west, the ridge continues along a fine series of hills – Foel-goch, Mynydd Perfedd and Carnedd y Filiast. Spectacular corries and cliffs and beautiful views across the Nant Ffrancon/valley to the east, but mining-scarred to the north-west.

The 1,001m Glyder Fawr summit is one of several large piles of broken rock on the rather featureless high rocky platform. The summit area is fairly flat for some while eastwards, joining the lip of the great cliffs and corries of the northern slopes. The panorama from the summit is fine, across the deep Nant Ffrancon valley to the inviting high cliffs and ridges of the Carneddau, and south to the high Snowden and Lliwedd ridges, but out east is real visual drama time. Across a col, up indistinct paths through very rough and broken rocks, below the spires known as the Castle of the Winds, is the summit of Glyder Fach at 994m. Its most famous feature is the huge flat rock of Y Gwyliwr apparently teetering on a rocky lever. You now have wonderful views north to Tryfan and on to the Carneddau, and ever-better ones south to the high Snowden massif.

The pyramidal Y Garn is the northernmost of the main Glyder mountains.

The energetic can also nip eastward to bag Y Foel Goch (at 805m), which itself has splendid views. Walkopedia did this and can vouch for it being well worthwhile. Or you can walk in or out along the Y Foel Goch and Cefyn y Capel ridges to/from Capel Curig on the A5 as long as you can manage transport. This is a fine walk in its own right, with a great circuit available.

You can make tremendous ridge walks, and also have wonderful climbs to particular summits, some of them including scrambles in the Rocky northern cwms.

These mountains have very different aspects. From the Snowdon massif to the west,  they look big but slightly featureless long grassy, rocky slopes; whereas from the east they are all rocky drama, cliffs and cirques, with the amazing Tryfan as a superlative outlier.

From the South and West:

The circuit of the Glyderau from Pen-y-Pass is a proper walking joy. A long climb gets you to the high ridge for a mass of interest and huge all-round views, including across to Snowdon and over to nearly Tryfan.

You can climb up the Dudodyn valley from the head of Llyn Peris lake, past the depressing mining scars to reach Elidir Fawr, then head on to Mynydd Perfedd on the high ridge, turn south to taste the pleasures of the ridge through Foel Goch to Y Garn, and return to the Llanberis valley down to the steep westward valley to Y Garn’s south.

From the north-east, you are in for some really special walking treats.

915m Tryfan is one of Snowdonia’s most iconic (sorry) and characterful mountains, a sheer-flanked fin of rock standing above the A5 and Llyn Ogwen and clear to the north of its Glyderau mother massif. The scramble up and over its length is one of Snowdonia’s – and Britain’s – most exciting expeditions, but is only for the fit and confident.

Y Garn via Devil’s Kitchen: Y Garn is, like the other Glyderau, a mountain of two halves, a ridiculously rough and rocky pyramid from the east and a long, grassy clamber from the west. The top of the Cwm Idwal valley to the northeast is dominated by the crazed crags of the Devil's Kitchen, above which you meet a wide, grassy pass and turn northish for a steady climb to Y Garn. Starting at Ogwen Cottage at the foot of Llyn Ogwen, climb up a rough hillside to the really gorgeous Llyn Idwal lake deep in its rocky cirque, rounding its left shore towards the famous Idwal Slabs. Head straight up into the Devil's Kitchen, towards the black crevice of Twll Du, turning left at its foot to climb the Devil's Staircase and then a scree gulley to emerge into a very different world of grass and sky. Head up the long slope to Y Garn, for a vast all-round round array of visual wonder. To make a circuit, you will need to descend the north-east ridge, which is in places a not very enjoyable steep eroded scramble but elsewhere a wonderful teeter along the top, enjoying outstanding views in both directions along the Nant Ffrancon/Ogwen valley.

The Y Gribin ridge is another steep, dramatic ridge running north from the lower ground between the two Glyder summits. It is generally reasonably straightforward bar the heavily eroded top section, and has the usual gorgeous views (don’t get complacent, now). It links to both the Idwal and Bochlwyd valleys, so makes a good circuit for those waiting to approach or descend via either of them.

Generally some head for heights is needed, but this is not dangerous or highly exposed walking on a clearish day. (The exception is Tryfan, which is a hard scramble and not for the novice.) This is, though, demanding walking in high mountains with uncertain weather. Come fully prepared, and consider whether tackling it is sensible in poor conditions. Consider whether there is much point in low cloud.

See our Snowdonia page for more ideas and helpful practical information, photos, and any risks to consider.