Annapurna Circuit Trek

Name: Administrator
Posted on: 27/08/2012

The following is Bernard Koh�s piece on walking here, which was an entry we much enjoyed for our 2011 Travel Writing Competition.

Annapurna Circuit

Day 1 - Namaste!

It was 6 November 2011. We reached Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport later than expected. We were circling around the sky approximately 35km away from the landing due to bad weather conditions. We were told that Hotel Moonlight was full and we will be staying at Noring Resort on our first night instead. We had the initial briefing on our first day and went to Third Eye Restaurant for our welcome dinner. The food was fantastic. We decided that we will come back here to the restaurant again.

Day 3 - Surprise Night Trek

We finally reached Bulbule after a hellish undulating ride on the rocky tarmac road and across small streams. Our guide Buddhi did the TIMS registration and we trekked for approximately 3 hours in the dark. It was really cool to trek on our first day under the moonlight and I did not use much of my headlamp.

Day 5 - Impromptu Dharapani

We were separated for a brief moment when both me and Maria crossed one of the suspension bridge before it was closed by one of the ACAP folks. Unbeknownst to us, we heard a deafening loud blast from where we came. I ran towards the opposite side of the bridge but I was stopped by the ACAP personnel. He looked vehement and howled at me. I remain composed while I tried to articulate that we have got friends on the opposite side. He reassured me that everything is under control and I will see them soon. I am beginning to question why they are destroying the natural environmental for economical gains. All the international reports on the shrinking Annapurna is beginning to make sense to me.

Day 8 - Acclimatization beckons

Maria told us that she felt a slight earthquake this morning around 5am. We had some really tasty bread for the first time after passing Humde Airport when we reached Braga. I was happy that Jee Pek had come a long way and I am quite confident that he will cross Thorong La safely. Guess what? There is a movie theatre in Manang and it only costs 200 rupee with hot tea and popcorn. We watched 2 movies - Seven Years in Tibet and Into Thin Air.

Day 9 - Acclimatization Day

It was our acclimatization day. I woke up early before heading to Milarepa Cave at 4300m. It was a beautiful day and it was the same trail up to Annapurna III. We encounter snow on certain parts of the trail today and it was really nice to visit the Buddhist religious site. The hike up was steep thus the descent was a little bit tricky to avoid from falling off the cliff. It was shivering cold that night but I went ahead for the quick shower.

Day 11 - High Camp Push

The trek towards Thorong Pedi was smooth and the weather was chilling despite the hot sunny day. I took Jee Pek's daypack for the first time and went all the way up to High Camp while Buddhi assisted Jee Pek up the steep trail. Jee Pek decided that he will take the horse tomorrow and I said okay. I respect his decision. The food at High Camp was terrible and I had a bad headache that night. It was a bitter cold night. The worst night ever for the whole trek duration!

Day 12 - Thorong La!

I woke up late at 450am and my head was still spinning. I wondered if I ever slept the previous night. Buddhi was still sleeping when I got out of my down sleeping bag reluctantly. Maria was sitting motionless in her room while I asked her out for breakfast. We gathered for breakfast while my headache began to subside and I felt much better at 6am. After which we did not have much appetite for breakfast but I tried my best with the Snicker bar. Things were happening. Symptoms of AMS were all there. Jee Pek was coughing the whole night. Buddhi then did a test on Maria and said that she have to take the horse if not she would have to take the miserable option of descending by Thorong Pedi direction. After much discussion I decided to head towards Thorong La on the horse. I remembered that I told Jee Pek during training that crossing the pass was not important but the process of the trek proper was most memorable. We trained and we came. Now we do our best to cross this path together. It was not an easy decision but I do not wish to lose sight of both Jee Pek and Maria during the most crucial part of the trek. Crossing Thorong La was the coldest experience for me and I descent swiftly after taking pictures amidst many trekkers jostling around the strings of prayer flags.

Day 15 - Tatopani Bus Ride

We spend an hour trekking in the morning before we took mini buses along the way to Tatopani via Ghasa. We had begun to trek along the rocky undulating highway where we have to endure dust, smoke and travelling vehicle that shared the same path. This was the second time I was reminded of the BBC shrinking Annapurna reports. I am beginning to see why the ACT may be a thing of the past as commercialization and increased tourism is eroding the natural environment.

Day 17 - Ghorepani Ascent

Good Morning Sunshine! It was the toughest day of the whole Annapurna Circuit Trek as described on the travel guides. We crossed two bridges over the Kaligandaki River in less than an hour before trekking all the way up to Ghorepani. Time flies and we reached there by 3pm. We reached the peak of Poon Hill by 5pm just in time to soak in the sunset panoramic view.