South Kaibab Trail

SW: Grand Canyon, USA

William Mackesy’s account of this walk

Here is our descent of the South Kaibab, as part of the Grand Day Loop:

Drew, our driver-guide, drops us at the road barrier, and we walk the 10 minutes to the South Kaibab trailhead. As we reach the rim, a fierce wind whips up: rising dawn air.

The world below us is quiet and dim. The first light is just touching the upper ridges and buttes in a glorious incandescence.

Check watch:7.20am. We plunge. The early trail snakes down the hard pale limestone  cliffs below Yaki Point, coming out into the full glory of the canyon, and the golden early light, at the well-named Oo-ah Point. 

We are now on Cedar Ridge, with marvellous views each way and the deep red, shapely O’Neill Butte immediately below. This is a thrilling descent, at times teetering across the ridgetop in the buffeting gusts.

A steep descent, then a flat section crosses a saddle to swing below O’Neill Butte. Wonderful walking.

After a long, winding descent, we reach the famous viewpoint at Skeleton Point. A long view up the canyon in now hazier, flatter light. 

A steep series of switchbacks. We meet a pantomime cowboy at the head of  5-mule train bearing tourists, some uncomfortable some sheepish.

Then it is the bare ground and the lonely crapper at the Tip-off.

And here is the Tonto Trail, the great canyon-long mid-flanks  traverse. It looks incredibly enticing as snakes away, less maintained and a whole lot emptier. We turn west for Indian Garden and the Bright Angel Trail, 4 miles away.