Heaphy Track

Located in the wild north-west corner of New Zealands beautiful South Island, the Heaphy track satisfies many of the demands a walker may make of a trail: not only is it challenging, exquisite and thoroughly photogenic, it also has a recognised history. 21^st century visitors follow in the centuries-old footsteps of both Maori and European travellers, writing the next chapter of the paths history as they go. 

The track takes its name from Charles Heaphy, who, in 1846, in the company of colleague Thomas Brunner negotiated the coastal portion of the current track. Prior to this the route had been the preserve of the Golden Bay Maori, who habitually made the journey to look for Pounamu (greenstone), which they used to make tools, weapons and jewellery. The inland portion of the track was not frequented by Europeans until gold miners began to cross that way in the late 1850s. By the end of the 19^th century however, the track had fallen into disrepair and it was not until the 1960s, when the Northwest Nelson Forest Park was set up, that the track was re-established for public use.

The Heaphy Track is considered by many people to be the best of New Zealands Great Walks, as it combines alpine scenery with a rugged, palm-edged coastal panorama. It is possible to walk the track in both directions, but most people start at Collingwood and finish in Karamea. There are huts, evenly spaced along the track, which provide walkers with basic over-night accommodation (with the option of staying in a bunk or camping in the grounds). It is necessary to book your place at these huts with The Department of Conservation before you begin your walk.

Starting from the Collingwood end of the track, the first days walking takes you 17.5km from Brown Hut to Perry Saddle Hut, during which you cross the Brown River and climb to the tracks highest point at Flanagans Corner. The second days trek takes you 12.4kms to Saxon Hut, via open planes, river beds and limestone caves.

From Saxon Hut the track drops to the grassy flats beside the Saxon River and then up again to join Mackay Downs. A 70m section of the track across the Mackay Downs is liable to flood in severe wet weather and walkers are advised to wait for the water to subside should this occur. Passing through fields and areas of beech forest, this section of the track ends at James Mackay Hut.

The fourth days walking starts the ascent to the Heaphy River, 750m below the James Mackay Hut. 12.5 km into the days walking, the Lewis Hut is suddenly reached, at the junction between the Heaphy and Lewis Rivers. It is a good spot to stop for lunch and to apply insect repellent, as it is from this point onward that sand flies abound and all exposed patches of untreated skin will soon be itchy with bites! From Lewis Hut, the track crosses the Heaphy River and continues along its bank, through lush West Coast forest. This is another section of the track that often becomes impassable during times of very heavy rain and walkers are again advised to wait for water to subside before continuing. The culmination of the days walking is the Heaphy Hut, from which the wild West Coast waves can be heard crashing against the shore. 

The final days walking takes you south to Kohaihai, largely on forest track, though it is occasionally possible to walk on the beach, when the nikau palms, often dramatic wave formations and rugged coastline make for some spectacular photo opportunities. Be sure to have checked the tide times before completing this last section of the walk, as the section beyond Katipo Creek can be cut off for 2 hours either side of high tide if the seas are rough. Having scaled the Kohaihai Saddle, the track culminates at the Kohaihai Carpark, where it is possible to phone your pick up to confirm your safe arrival.

Be warned that sand flies proliferate on the West Coast of the South Island! Take a strong insect repellent and cover up as much as possible. They are enough of a nuisance to mar your enjoyment of this fantastic area if you do not come prepared. As Captain James Cook noted in his journal when he came across the insects at Fiordlands Dusky Sound, possibly at a sandy beach, in May 1773:Walkopedia friend Anthony Fawcett says: “The Heaphy is typically the track that I recommend to people going to NZ for the first time with time to do just one major walk, the reason being the incredible variety, which is better than any other track that I've walked in NZ.  It doesn't have the drama of the major tracks down south or the majesty of the Tongariro Crossing but I have very positive memories of walking it a few years ago.  This time around I didn't do a track up there but visited a sequence of places such as Wharariki beach, which is amazing.”

"The most mischievous animal here is the small black sandfly which are exceeding numerous wherever they light they cause a swelling and such intolerable itching that it is not possible to refrain from scratching and at last ends in ulcers like the small Pox."

Walkopedia friend Anthony Fawcett says: “The Heaphy is typically the track that I recommend to people going to NZ for the first time with time to do just one major walk, the reason being the incredible variety, which is better than any other track that I've walked in NZ.  It doesn't have the drama of the major tracks down south or the majesty of the Tongariro Crossing but I have very positive memories of walking it a few years ago.  This time around I didn't do a track up there but visited a sequence of places such as Wharariki beach, which is amazing.”​