Iveragh Peninsula

The Iveragh Peninsula is the largest of the rugged peninsulas which make up Ireland's far south-west, sitting at the heart of the region, south of the Dingle Peninsula and north of Beara

Iveragh includes Ireland's highest mountains, the peculiarly named MacGillycuddy's Reeks, and a host of other fine mountains and ridges. And lakes, waterfalls and gorgeous valleys; miles of superb coastline; and pleasing towns and fishing villages. 

Much of Iveragh is painfully beautiful on a good day: high rock-and-grass ridges with the sea ever-present from higher ground, all luminous in vaporous light… until a shower comes through. While some of the hills are rough in the extreme, there is a melting prettiness about the valleys, with their gurgling steams and frequent waterfalls.

The area has plenty of historical interest, particularly its prehistoric hill forts and stone circles; its castles and its many remarkable examples of early Christian architecture. Western Ireland had a crucial role in the survival and revival of Christianity in Western Europe during the turbulent Dark Ages, and the peninsula is sprinkled with evidence of this, and not just Skellig Michael.

Iveragh boasts colonies of seabirds, common species to rare ones (check out the puffins in early summer), choughs, corncrakes and hen harriers on land. It is no slouch on the mammalian marine life either.

The peninsula boasts some superb walking routes although, as we lament elsewhere, there is no general right of access to the countryside in Ireland, and no traditional footpaths/rights of way, so walking options are not as extensive as they might be. That said, you could easily spend a week here without feeling sated.

The great long-distance trail here, and one of Ireland’s finest routes, is the famously beautiful 214km Kerry Way, which circuits the peninsula. Follow old lanes and tracks through varied scenery: mountains, moorland and boggy slopes, to sheep-studded fields, to beaches and clifftops. Stay in traditional villages, enjoy the local ways and friendliness. There is a section of the Kerry Way near you wherever you are in the Iveragh, so you always have a fine day walking option at hand. Most of the Way is magnificent, so you can simply head for your nearest stretch. But, if you want to be choosey, our Kerry Way page has suggestions for the best sections.

The famous walking area here is MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, with Carrauntoohil, Ireland’s highest mountain at 1,040m, the particular mountain that any keen walker wants to tackle but many days’ worth of other varied delights.

Another unforgettable area is beautiful Killarney National Park, with a selection of fabulous walks, lakesiders to an ancient hill track, to Torc Mountain and Purple and Tomies Mountains, hills with meltingly pretty views.

Other excellent walking includes:

• Skellig Michael: a weird - and indeed wonderful - rock off the west of the Iveragh Peninsula, famous for the exceptionally interesting and dramatically sited early Christian monastic remains which are perched on its impossible flanks. A wander (or rather clamber) here is truly thrilling.
• Bentee Hill: above Cahersiveen, for outstanding views of the north-west end of the peninsula and across to the Dingle Peninsula.
• We love the look of the high ridge west of Ballaghbeama Gap – Mallaghanattin to Finnarargh to Knochnagantee to Coomavanniha, with its cliffs and corries and often narrow, airy ridges. How well pathed this is, is as yet unclear to us. Community comments requested!
• Circuit Knochanaskill Hill west of Kenmare on quiet country lanes.

We would love to hear of more top walks: Community Suggestions Requested!

The South-west gets a lot of rain and wind, plus cloud/fog and winter snow on high ground. Take great care with wayfinding in foggy/mist/cloudy conditions, indeed the high ground isn’t much fun if you won’t be able to see! There is little shelter on the mountains, either from sun or rain. Be prepared, both mentally and with the right kit.