Djibouti

This hot, barren and little-known enclave on the Red Sea east of Ethiopia will surprise you with its natural marvels and, as a result, great walking. 

A very volcanic history means you will meet ancient volcanoes, weird formations and high plateaus from basalt outpourings, as well as canyons and salt lakes.

Djibouti City is a mixed place, until recently a post-colonial mess which is modernising fast as a result of its strategic importance. 

Superb places to walk in its hinterland include the following.

Lac Assal 

This outstanding crater lake lies in a huge depression, at 155m below sea level the lowest point in Africa, some 100km west of Djibouti City. Around it is a ring of volcanic cones and their dark lava fields and a vast, white salt flat, 10km wide and 60m deep. Exceptional landscape, even by East African standards. Explore on foot.

Lac Abbe

Another absolutely extraordinary area: a huge, largely desolate plain on the Ethiopian border with a flamingo-lined lake, hot, bubbling springs and countless peculiar towers/chimneys of limestone which emit steam eructations. The chimneys are up to 150m high, so immensely dramatic (and some are climbable!). The whole area evokes less-believable sci-fi. Not to be missed.

Goda Mountains, Dittilou, Foret du Day

Entering the Goda Mountains can be a shock, as you transition rapidly from harsh desert to dank cloud forest. These mountains, up to 1,750m high, tower to the north-west of the gulf in which Djibouti City sits. They capture the moisture that the rest of the area so evidently misses, and their flanks are patched with forest and surprisingly pleasant Afar villages nestled in their verdant fields.

The nearest area to Djibouti City is the Foret du Day, a fascinating cloud forest at around 1,500m on the south-eastern flanks. It is home to birds galore, including raptors, deer and monkeys. Next round, to the north land on the eastern side of the Foret du Day, is Dittilou. The furthest away is Bankouale, which sits in wonderful landscape, with peaks, cliffs, gorges and waterfalls.

Les Allols

Another extraordinary depression, west of the Goda Mountains. Aeons of volcanism have produced an endless array of wierdness, from crazed distortions of rock to dark lava fields and harshly white salt flats. You can make sorter walks, but the great experience here us to trek across the whole area; thus can be done in various ways, taking from 2 to 4 days.

Ardoukoba Volcano

This 298m red fissure volcano, surrounded by rough lava fields, sits between Lake Assal and the sea. Well worth a visit to view a very recently-born volcano (1978).

Western salt routes

In the west are routes along which salt has been carried for centuries. You can trek in utterly remote and often dramatic landscape, from overnighters in the areas of Lac Assal and Les Allols to much longer routes towards the Ethiopian border. You will be guided by Afar nomads, so this is a brilliant way to encounter local nomadic culture.

Abourma Rock Art Site

Round to the north-east of the Goda Mountains is this superb rock-art site, which is awash with detailed pictures of animals and people. A 2hr return walk through wild, stunning landscape, although check ahead that the access track is passable to vehicles. Guide compulsory. Very hot and exposed. Combine with a Goda Mts expedition.

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The heat and lack of water can be extreme at the low altitudes. They are unvisitable at some times of the year. Always come prepared, protected and with enough water.

Expeditions/guides often need to be organised in Djibouti City. Agence Safar is the most-recommended operator. Safar.djibouti@gmail.com.

Lonely Planet's Ethiopia and Djibouti has decent basic information (including about guides and places to stay) on all the above - find it here.

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