Key information: Pastena-Lone Circuit
- Lovely three-hour circuit through the lower levels of the hills west of Amalfi, a stunning stretch of rugged World Heritage coastline south of Naples, which commands constantly breathtaking views of both Mediterranean and mountains.
- This is a moderate-level path, with a height gain of 820ft, whose views of the Med through a terraced sea of citrus groves, vineyards and wild flowers, has changed little since Longfellow penned his 1875 poem, Amalfi.
- An area of antiquity, culture, architecture, religious art, inventive farming and ferocious natural beauty. It is also a tourist hot-spot with prices that are often as breathtaking as the landscape. Be prepared to hear your credit card squeal.
- Walkopedia rating93
- Natural interest15
- Human interest14
- Negative points0
- Total rating93
- Length: 2 1/2 hrs
- Level of Difficulty: Moderate
A plethora of writers, poets, artists and musicians have visited and been inspired by this rugged, beautiful coastline: among them the poet Longfellow who, though more commonly associated with America, was a huge Italophile with a special feel for this area, writing fulsomely about the local landscape in his idyll, Amalfi.
<span style="font-family:" en-gb"="">Starting at the far side of the road tunnel on Amalfi?s western edge, this is a lovely pastoral walk which leads, firstly, upwards (the highest point is 820ft from the start) via rock-hewn steps and good paths, past series of fine chapels and into the foothills of the Lattari mountains, and returns gently downhill (with a detour for those who want a glimpse of something more rugged) along a higher level of the same coast back to the starting point. A lush paradise of citrus and olive, vines and wildflowers whose terraces, climbing up above the blue Mediterranean, are a moving history lesson in their own right.
Other accounts: share your experiences
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Books and Maps
Books on this walk
Sorrento, Amalfi Coast and Capri– Julian Tippett/Sunflower Landscapes: excellent walking guide with a useful map and suggestions for car tours thrown in. Also includes bus timetables.
Walking on the Amalfi Coast – Gillian Price/Cicerone: always-reliable guide lists 30 routes
Naples, Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast– Christian Bonnetto/Lonely Planet – has a section on this walk
The Rough Guide to Naples and the Amalfi Coast – Martin Dunford/Rough Guides – has dedicated walks sections
Naples and Pompeii: Vesuvius, Herculaneum and the Amalfi Coast - Ezio Rendo/Bonechi Edizioni: Italian guidebook translated
Italy Baedeker Guide– MairDumont/Baedeker
My Amalfi Coast– Amanda Tabberer/Michael Joseph – former journalist and fashion designer’s memoir of the eighteen years she lived in Positano
Poems of Places, Volume 1, Italy – Henry Wadsworth Longfellow/BiblioBazaar – anthology collected by the poet, who had an intense enthusiasm for the country, includes his own poem, Amalfi.
One to look at online: Google map
Kompass Italy hiking map Sorrento Peninsula-Amalfi coast
Touring club Italiano Campania road map
Stanfords: www.stanfords.co.uk.An excellent (and user-friendly) online specialist source of worldwide maps (it is also good for guidebooks).
Best times to walk/weather
Best times to walk
Very hot in high Summer.
See our Amalfi Coast page for long-distance connections.
Amalfi is the region’s main town. SITA buses run through to it from Salerno and Sorrento, passing through all the coastal communities along the way. Alight on the Western side of the road tunnel, or walk through it to start your walk.
No permits are needed to do this walk.
Just beyond the road tunnel on the delightfully-named via Quasimodo, a narrow road (via Maestra Viaggi), leads uphill and soon becomes steps. Continue up this for 400m, passing beneath the arch of the La Carmine chapel, until Salita Pomicara turns off steeply to the right, up a gully. This levels out (keep left) after a batch of lemon groves, crossing a bridge after 200m, keeping an eye out for the campanile on the second chapel, that of Pastena. Pause to take in the fabulous view from here, then climb a flight of steps to the Pogerola road. Cross this and carry on up to the path to a t-junction, where you turn left, roughly 300m to a crossroads. (Here, you can take a detour, turning right (via Sorgenti) which will lead you upwards into more mountainous territory; allow a hour to do this and retrace your steps.) If not taking the detour, take the unnamed track straight ahead; this curves round, recrosses the Pogerola road and comes to the final chapel, with another fine outlook, at Lone. Follow the steps down from the chapel to the next, red-paved, viewpoint; the path to the left here leads straight back down to the road tunnel.
Possible problems, health, other warnings
- Heat and strong sun. Carry enough water and protect yourself.
- Heights: can be dangerous; not for those who have difficulties with heights.
- Harmful animalssnakes, stinging/biting insects. Take all appropriate precautions.
See also the websites in our useful links page for more detailed, and up-to-date, information.
Safety and problems: All walks have inherent risks and potential problems, and many of the walks featured on this website involve significant risks, dangers and problems. Problems of any sort can arise on any walk. This website does not purport to identify any (or all) actual or potential risks, dangers and problems that may relate to any particular walk. Any person who is considering undertaking this walk should do careful research and make their own assessment of the risks, dangers and possible problems involved. They should also go to “Important information” for further important information.
Make sure you have appropriate insurance.
Guided or independent?
You can do this walk independently
Can be done as part of an organised walking holiday. Organisers include:
- Custom Walks
This is a hugely popular holiday destination and suppurates with (generally not the cheapest) accommodation. Steer clear of Positano, though, which is a giant cash till. Search “Amalfi/ Amalfi Coast accommodation” or try:
Other information and tips
This is a beautiful piece of country, but, being almost entirely dependent on tourism, is close to Venetian in its pricing. Be prepared to take some deep breaths.
Suitable footwear, with good ankle support and a good tread is a must. Steps and stone paving can become slippery with the first hint of rain.
Though a car can be a nice liberty, parking is hard to find and shockingly expensive. Local buses, however, are frequent and go to pretty much everywhere.
Useful websites and information
There are many websites with relevant information. Here are some that we think are useful or have been recommended to us.
- Local hotel’s guide to the walk
- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amalfi_Coast As usual, a good starting place.
- Fodor’s online guide
- Lonely Planet Amalfi coast guide
- Try www.flickr.com for pictures of this walk.
Other things to do in the area
Ancient things: If you’re anywhere within a hundred miles, you have to visit Pompeii and Herculaneum; these volcanically-mummified cities will remain with you forever. If you have to choose one, choose Herculaneum, which is better preserved, less crowded and so atmospheric it makes you want to weep. The well-preserved Greek temples at Paestum are also well worth the trip. Tiberius’s Villa Jovis (scene of much orgiastic defenestration) on Capri is more impressive for its views than its preservation.
Less ancient, but still pretty ancient, things: Nearly every town from Sorrento south deserves at least a moment’s pause. Particularly recommended: Ravello, Amalfi, Salerno. Positano is a bit of a Disney version of an Italian resort, but it’s okay if you like shopping and £20 bowls of spaghetti.
An island: There are lots of boat trips to Capri, from where the ringing of cash tills will follow you all the way to Naples. Shorter, but satisfying, boat trips go from Amalfi to the Emerald Grotto and Positano.
A nice beach with relatively cheap eats: the Marina del Cantone, isolated at the bottom ofthe Sorrento peninsula, is a lovely little concatenation of fishing boats and fish restaurants on a lovely pebbly beach.
Do not leave the area without having at least one of the local versions of the sublime sfogliatelle pastries.
Safety and problems: All walks have inherent risks and potential problems, and many of the walks featured on this website involve significant risks, dangers and problems. Problems of any sort can arise on any walk. This website does not purport to identify any (or all) actual or potential risks, dangers and problems that may relate to any particular walk.
Any person who is considering undertaking this walk should do careful research and make their own assessment of the risks, dangers and possible problems involved. They should also go to “Important information” for further important information.
share your experiences
Add your experiences, suggestions and photos. We would be delighted to receive your writing and ideas (which will be attributed appropriately where published).
Anyone planning an expedition to this place should see further important information about this walk.
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