Key information: Gallipoli Peninsula
- Experience the haunting atmosphere of the quiet and beautiful Gallipoli peninsula, its dotted memorials and cemeteries an immediate reminder of the heavy fighting that took place here in 1915-16.
- Some fascinating and rewarding walks, often following in the footsteps of the men who fought and died there.
- Enjoy the bleakly beautiful scenery ? dry, rolling hills with the rugged coast seldom far from sight.
- Walkopedia rating81
- Natural interest13
- Human interest12
- Negative points2
- Total rating81
- Note: Negs: crowding at the main sites.
- Length: Variable
- Maximum Altitude: Not high
- Level of Difficulty: Moderate
There is something magical about this tiny corner of Turkey, its position on the blurred border between Europe and Asia lending it a disproportionate historical importance. Both Xerxes of Persia and his father Darius attempted (according to Herodotus) to construct a bridge of boats across the Dardanelles, the narrow channel of water that separates Europe from Asia south-west of Istanbul, and conquer Greece, and both ultimately failed. Many years later, Alexander the Great crossed the straits in the opposite direction to conquer the Persian Empire. Just a few kilometres south of the strait lies the legendary city of Troy.
The Dardanelles, once known as the Hellespont, has perhaps a particular resonance in the West: in the Greek myths, it was across these waters that the love-struck Leander would swim each night, towards the lantern lit by his Hero in her tower at Sestos. It was also across these waters that Lord Byron once swam, to prove the feat possible. With the giants of myth, legend and reality passing through here, it is unsurprising that the area maintains such a strong sense of history. But it is the now infamous strip of land to the north-west which draws most modern visitors: The Gallipoli Peninsula.
Gallipoli is a beautiful, if bleak, and curiously big landscape. Much of the interior appears rolling ? even flat in places ? and is dry and windswept, with brown grassy slopes offering views stretching vast distances across the peninsula. These disguise winding gullies of varying depth and breadth, meandering in from a coastline of short beaches and small cliffs and providing dusty pathways through the peninsula ? for invading forces both natural trenches and terrifyingly vulnerable tracks. Though small, the often interestingly carved sandy cliffs rearing from the beaches provide an imposing barrier.
It is impossible not to focus on the hostile features of the peninsula?s landscape, given its saturation with memories of its more recent past. Between April 1915 and January 1916, the Turks won the greatest of the Ottoman Empire?s First World War victories, when they successfully repulsed a landing by Allied troops at Gallipoli. The difficulties the invading troops must have faced are starkly illustrated by the narrow, easily defendable beaches and the steep gullies they used to transport men and supplies.
As part of an attempt to gain control of a sea route to Russia by capturing the Dardanelles, the Allies landed around 90,000 troops on the northern shores of the Gallipoli peninsula. However the unfriendliness of the terrain had been horribly underestimated, and they never managed to control more than the very tip of Gallipoli, and a thin stretch of land on the northwestern corner ? short even after eight months of the gains they had hoped for in the first twenty-four hours. After months of bungling Allied command, and stalemate on the ground, the troops were ignominiously withdrawn having achieved no tangible gain.
Famously, his successes here demonstrated the military abilities of the commanding officer Mustafa Kemal. In the aftermath of war, he was to lead the Turkish to independence, earning himself the surname ?Ataturk? (Father of the Turks) and an enduring legacy. Ataturk is revered in modern-day Turkey ? to insult his memory is officially illegal ? and his presence is hard to avoid. At Anzac Cove, his 1934 quote is inscribed on a vast stone memorial:
?There is no difference between the Johnnies
and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side
here in this country of ours?
You, the mothers,
who sent their sons from faraway countries
wipe away your tears;
your sons are now lying in our bosom
and are in peace,
after having lost their lives on this land they have
become our sons as well.?
In contrast, Gallipoli proved the undoing of that bellicose First Sea Lord, Winston Churchill, whose resignation was forced following the disaster; were it not for the Second World War, Gallipoli would be the event he would be best known for.
Under the umbrella of the British forces, troops from Australia, New Zealand, Newfoundland and India, as well as the UK, fought at Gallipoli: amongst the French forces were soldiers from both France and French West Africa. Because of the large number of Australian and New Zealand Army Corps soldiers present, along with the important place the campaign holds in their history (it was both nations? first major military action), commemoration of Gallipoli has become a weighty national celebration, and many visitors here are Antipodeans.
The human cost on both sides was incredibly high in Gallipoli: around 52% of Allied troops, and around 60% of Turks, are listed as casualties. The Gallipoli peninsula has an immediate poignancy which is difficult to escape. The waste of human life was catastrophic, and the stories from both sides of everyday life, as well as individual heroics, make it all the harder to accept.
There are three main areas to the battlefields: Anzac, Helles and Suvla. Suvla is the most difficult to walk, as the battlefield sites are much more spread out. Both Anzac and Helles are compact enough that you can spend a rewarding day in each.
This is the most visited sector, and the Australian government includes the outline of a walk between fourteen of the main sites on their Anzac website (including an excellent array of materials, with first-hand accounts as well as a summary of historical information). It is this walk which is described here, in brief.
Set off from North Beach, the site of some of the misjudged Anzac landings. Sandy cliffs rear up from the coast: the new recruits, fresh from military training in Egypt, nicknamed the eroded ridge the ?Sphinx?. The walk continues through Ari Burnu cemetery and to Anzac Cove. This is perhaps the most iconic of the Gallipoli sites ? certainly for Australian and New Zealand visitors. Following the shape of the coastline on a path slightly inland, you will come to Hell Spit, from which wonderful views reach over the Aegean to Turkish Imbros, and the distant Greek island of Samothrace.
From here head inland, up Shrapnel Valley to the cemetery. This was the route to the front, a fold in the hills which became an obvious shelling target for the defending army. Returning to the coastal path, the walk heads south to Brighton Beach, just north of the promontory of Gaba Tepe. This was where the troops were supposed to land, some two or three miles south of North Beach.
You will leave the coast behind briefly, heading up Artillery Road to Shell Green and Lone Pine cemeteries and, several hundred metres further on, Johnston?s Jolly. This area was one of the bloodiest on both sides, and there are several Turkish memorials on the route. The first is a larger-than-life statue of a Turkish soldier, shown facing determinedly down the hill. The second, further along, is on the road down to the Allied Nek cemetery
Walk from the Nek cemetery to that at Walker?s Ridge, before finishing the walk on the edge of the ridge, overlooking North Beach.
The Helles sector is the southernmost point of the peninsula, and most of the Allied fighting here was done by British and French troops. Two of the most famous memorials are in this area. The first of these is the impressive Helles Memorial, a 30m high obelisk visible to all ships passing through the Dardanelles, which commemorates both the campaign itself and all those missing soldiers who are not named at other sites. From here it is only a short distance to the grave of Lieutenant Colonel Doughty-Wylie, famous as the only soldier on the peninsula to have an individual memorial.
Close by are the cemeteries of V Beach and Lancashire Landing, where burials began soon after the Allied landings. V Beach is just yards away from the badly damaged old Ottoman fort of Sedd?lbahir, from which the Turkish rained bullets upon the attacking British and French forces. A walk to the northeast will take you to the French cemetery and the Canakkale Martyrs Memorial, a huge 40m high commemoration of Turkish losses in the campaign.
A more adventurous walk, to the north of these concentrated beaches and memorials, follows the Gully Ravine in either direction, starting and/or finishing in the area of Pink Farm cemetery. This deep valley, an unexpected obstacle for troops, proved to be of great strategic importance throughout the Gallipoli campaign: it provided a path almost directly to the village of Krithia, an Allied objective, and its many offshoots formed a natural network of communications trenches. It even has a website dedicated to it (incidentally, with good general information on visiting Gallipoli).
The large curved bowl of Suzla Bay dominates the jagged northwest corner of Gallipoli, the landscape around it rugged and more hostile in appearance than the deceptively gentle appearance of some of the areas further south. This is the most spread out part of the battlefields, and walking from important site to important site becomes much more difficult. Having said that, the more remote landscape does lend the Suvla section a greater sense of adventure. As a result of the difficulties with access (and the fact that the fighting here was a British, rather than Anzac, attack) there is far less information readily available on Suvla, and a good guidebook will be necessary. Walkers will also need to be prepared for heat, and carry sufficient water.
One of the more experienced British firms for walking tours on Gallipoli is www.battle-honours.co.uk, and they offer a range of options ? including separate holidays aimed at first time and returning visitors.
Other accounts: share your experiences
Your comments on this walk, your experiences and suggestions, and your photos are very welcome. Where appropriate, you will be credited for your contribution.
Books and Maps
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Books on this walk
Walking the Gallipoli Peninsula – Tony Wright
Gallipoli: The Battlefield Guide – Mat McLachlan
Major & Mrs Holt’s Battlefield Guide: Gallipoli – Tonie and Valmai Holt
Return to Gallipoli: Walking the Battlefields of the Great War – Bruce Scates: Explores Gallipoli, and the Great War in general, through the pilgrimages which have drawn Australians back again and again to this battle site, from grieving mothers in the 1920s to backpackers of the twenty-first century.
Gallipoli – Peter Hart: Draws on personal accounts of the conflict from all sides, to focus on the human experience of Gallipoli.
Gallipoli – L. A. Carlyon: An in-depth account of the campaign, which begins with some perhaps irresistible comparisons to the epic battles of Homer.
Turkey – Lonely Planet
Ataturk: The Rebirth of a Nation – Patrick Kinross: an informative biography of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, and his modernization of Turkey.
Across the Hellespont: A Literary Guide to Turkey – Richard Stoneman: dives into the literature inspired by Turkey across two millennia.
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Best times to walk/weather
Best times to walk
The best time is probably spring and autumn, when the weather is at its mildest. Within this, late Spring is ideal – although April 25th is Anzac Day, so expect crowds.
Temperatures can get high in summer; 30°C and above is not uncommon. In winter, they drop significantly and the peninsula is often coated in snow. Spring and autumn are much milder.
Skyscanner is an excellent (relatively new) site for finding the flights you need; otherwise try Lastminute.com, or look at what’s available on Tripadvisor. Most visitors fly into Istanbul: there are two airports, Istanbul Ataturk and Sabiha Gokcen. Cheaper airlines often fly to the latter, which is 45km from the city centre, on the Asian side. Ataturk Airport is both closer (22km) and easier to arrange transport to/from.
From Istanbul, you can drive or take a bus to Çanakkale (on the mainland) or Eceabat (across the strait, on the peninsula). Buses are a common way to travel long distances in Turkey, and they are generally comfortable. Having a private car, however, can be an advantage if you are exploring the peninsula on your own.
Those on organised expeditions are likely to be transported from/to arranged start/departure points, and as is often the case with battlefields tours, these will often be in the country you are coming from. If you are booking tours whilst there, they are likely to start in Çanakkale or Eceabat.
No permits are needed to do this walk.
There are numerous routes around the battlefields, and if you are walking independently then these will tend to reflect your own interests and priorities. Taking a good guide to the battlefields (see our ‘Books and Maps’ section, above) is invaluable, and they will have suggested routes and itineraries.
Possible problems, health, other warnings
· Variable temperatures – it can get cold.
· Heat, humidity and strong sun. Carry enough water and protect yourself.
· Dangerous/harmful animals: although generally not a problem, there are snakes on the peninsula. Take all appropriate precautions, including sensible footwear.
· Beware of dogs: throw stones if they threaten, keep well clear if possibly rabid.
See also the websites in our useful links page for more detailed, and up-to-date, information.
Safety and problems: All walks have inherent risks and problems can arise on any walk. Many of the walks featured on this website involve significant risks and possible problems. This website cannot, and does not purport to, identify all actual or potential risks, dangers and problems that may relate to a walk or a country. Any person who is considering undertaking this walk should do careful research and make their own assessment of the risks, dangers and possible problems involved. They should also go to “Important information” for further important information.
Make sure you have appropriate insurance.
Guided or independent?
You can walk here independently, and most do. The major advantage of a guide is their knowledge of the campaign and the area, but if you do a bit of research and come equipped with a few decent guidebooks, you can often equal or better this.
Some people form or join organised/supported expeditions, whether run by a company in their own country (common with battlefield tours) or by one of the local guides. However, most battlefield tours on Gallipoli are short, and do not involve much walking. One of the few in-depth walking tours is run by the well-regarded British company Battle Honours: they do a range of walking tours in Gallipoli, including several aimed at returning visitors, who have already seen the main battlefield sites.
If hiring a guide locally, meet him/her and get comfortable before committing. Make sure all requirements are understood and agreed – including, of course, remuneration!
Steppes Travel do luxury, tailored trips to Turkey.
Have a look at Infohub to see if they have any good deals for this expedition.
Check Tripadvisor for some reviews of this walk and walk organisers which may prove helpful.
PLEASE HELP Walkopedia by recommending any reputable tour organizers that you know of – local or otherwise.
There are many small hotels, from very cheap hostels to smarter, pricier places, in Çanakkale and Eceabat. As the only real base for Gallipoli, Çanakkale has something of a captive audience, which may encourage slightly lower standards than you can find in the bigger cities. However, given its size, it doesn’t offer a bad selection.
Also, watch out: around ANZAC day accommodation will all be booked up well in advance, so if you intend to be here on or around the 25th April, be very organized about arranging somewhere to stay.
A good range of hotels can be found on the unimaginatively but effectively named Hotels.com.
If you’re on a budget, Hostelbookers usually has a good selection of cheaper-end accommodation; or perhaps try for some bargain luxury on Lastminute.com. In addition, the guidebooks have a selection of possible accommodation.
The Gallipoli Houses is a small hotel on the peninsula itself; accommodation here may be worth considering, and at the very least their website is a good source of information.
See what the commentary on Tripadvisor is on possible places to stay – although do take their reviews with a pinch of salt, as they can be “interested”.
Other information and tips
Tipping is expected, so come mentally prepared and with enough cash. Check guidebooks for current rates. Do err on the side of generosity if unsure – it will make a big difference to them.
Do be careful, considerate and respectful in all dealings with the locals.
If you intend to go any distance, having the correct gear is essential for a comfortable, safe walk. Begging and borrowing gear off others is ideal if you’re on a budget, or this is your first long walk, but at some point you may want to invest in some of your own. Some of our favourite equipment and clothing specialists include Surfdome, Britain’s Cotswold Outdoor, and the Utah-based company Campsaver.
Useful websites and information
There are many websites with relevant information. Here are some that we think are useful or have been recommended to us.
· Turkey Travel Planner has some relevant information, including on hiking the battlefields.
· Militrary historian Paul Reed’s site on WW1 battlefields includes a section with information on Gallipoli for both enthusiasts and tourists.
· The website of the hotel Gallipoli Houses has some interesting tidbits.
· www.wikipedia.org – As usual, a good starting place.
· Try www.flickr.com for pictures of this walk.
· Have a look at Tripadvisor – there are tens of millions of reviews, so you may get good, current views on this walk.
Other things to do in the area
Safety and problems: All walks have inherent risks and potential problems, and many of the walks featured on this website involve significant risks, dangers and problems. Problems of any sort can arise on any walk. This website does not purport to identify any (or all) actual or potential risks, dangers and problems that may relate to any particular walk.
Any person who is considering undertaking this walk should do careful research and make their own assessment of the risks, dangers and possible problems involved. They should also go to “Important information” for further important information.
share your experiences
Add your experiences, suggestions and photos. We would be delighted to receive your writing and ideas (which will be attributed appropriately where published).
Anyone planning an expedition to this place should see further important information about this walk.
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