Spectacular volcanic towers, babbling mountain brooks and serene alpine lakes; the mountains themselves, looming majestic on the horizon; the Bale Mountains offer a fantastic other Ethiopia away from the famed Afar Valley, cradle of humanity, and other sites in the north.

Tented base-camps atop the Harenna Escarpment are accessible from Dinsho, the National Park HQ, or the resorts of Dodola and Adaba. Forge through dense forest and past beautiful waterfalls (in particular the Kille hada berite and Meribo falls), plus not a little wildlife, to reach these camps. Once there, options abound: trace a circular route through each camp in turn, approximately 20km apart, or utilise your (pretty much compulsory) guide for a bespoke route and glean the benefits of their park knowledge and cultural insight.

Each camp tantalises with glimpses of juniper forest, heather moorland and alpine meadow as the plateau thrusts out of the lowland agricultural expanse. Remarkable and diverse fauna include Ethiopia's endemic mammals, the Mountain Nyala and Semien Fox. Indeed, the Bale Mountains are renowned for their wildlife, with around 60 further species of mammal, and over 260 varieties of bird.

It is delving deeper into the park from these starting points, however, that yields the greatest reward. Here, the grand Harenna Escarpment that divides the park could seem almost mundane. Volcanic formations consisting of ancient trachytes, basalts, agglomerates and tuffs, for the geologists amongst us abound in breathtaking spires of solid rock. The central peaks, covered by a capping of more recent magma flows, form spectacular rock ripples and pillars, and provide a constant and dramatic backdrop to any trek. This evocative landscape is echoed and reflected in the tranquil, serene lakes of the plateaux, which can explode into vivid brightness under the blue of a clear sky.

Altitudes are high enough to cause (at least) discomfort to most who undertake treks here, but with the park headquarters in Dinsho and various trails leading off every which way from the numerous roads, you can make walks here as easy or as difficult as you like. Two other gateways to the Bale Mountains, Dodola and Adaba, offer accommodation and supplies, and are good access for starting a trek onto the plateau. In addition, these community-led organizations provide local guides with real insight; recommended for most (especially longer) expeditions.