The less-visited Beara Peninsula is the third-down of south-western Ireland’s great seaward protrusions.

Much of Beara is extraordinarily beautiful on a good day. The chain of fine, largely treeless, empty mountains that forms its spine is a magnificent backdrop to a complicated and beautiful coastline, all luminous in soft watery light… until the next shower comes through. While some of the hills are rough in the extreme, there is a melting prettiness about the valleys, with their gurgling steams and so-green pastures. 

The peninsula’s northern flanks are arguably even more beautiful than the south and boast several stone circles/standing stones. They feel very remote indeed.

The area has plenty of historical interest, particularly its prehistoric hill forts and stone circles; its castles and its examples of early Christian architecture. 

Beara boasts colonies of seabirds, common species to rare ones, choughs, corncrakes and hen harriers on land. It is no slouch on the mammalian marine life either. 

The peninsula boasts some superb walking routes although, as we lament elsewhere, there is no general right of access to the countryside in Ireland, and no traditional footpaths/rights of way, so walking options are not as extensive as they might be and there is reduced ability to improvise, or to create your own circuits. That said, you could easily spend a week here without feeling sated.

Beara Way

The magnificent 206km Beara Way is the one of the country’s finest long-distance trails. It contours along the middle slopes, taking in some lesser hilltops, seldom on the sea and seldom above 300m. It has stunning views across Bantry Bay to the south and (even better) over the Kenmare River northward to the Iveragh Peninsula and the MacGillycuddy’sReeks , Ireland’s highest mountains.

Follow old lanes and tracks through varied scenery: beaches to clifftops to sheep-studded fields to mountains and moorland. Stay in traditional villages, enjoy the local ways and friendliness. 

The Way is not excessively demanding walking in itself, although you can be in for some long days depending on how you plan. It takes around 9 days if walking in full, reduced to 7 if you omit Bere and Dursey Islands. There is a section of the Beara Way near you wherever you are on the Beara Peninsula, so you always have a fine day walking option at hand. The whole Way is excellent walking, so you can simply head for your nearest stretch.

Other special Beara walking  includes:

Around Glenbeg Loughin its great bowl, under the sweep of cliffs of the central ridge. 

Around gorgeous Glanmore Lakes and the wild beautiful upper Glanmore Valley, which penetrates deep into the central mountain spine.

The Rugged Caha Mountains north-west of Glengarriff make for magnificent walking with their long, high ridge sporting views to (not literally) die for. But they are relatively trackless, so would make demanding walking.

Circle the hills north-west of Ardgroom, on paths and old lanes. Amazing sea views. Walkopedia covets this walk.

Dursey Island: the Beara Way circuits this little island at the tip of the peninsula in 14km/ around 4 hours. Stunning land-and-seascapes, and the whole island is a wildlife reserve, to boot. Access is by Ireland’s only and slightly alarming-looking cable car.

The hill at the far west of the peninsula, immediately along the Dursey Island cablecar, has wonderful all-round views. 

Allihies area: this town has some great walking on its doorstep. Try walking the ridge to its south, or up the beach and onto the hills to the north, or simply around the nearby lanes and along the lovely beaches. 

Cashelkeelity Stone Circle: a lovely stretch of the Beara Way leads to this fine stone circle.

Bere Island: the Beara Way follows a fine network of paths on this fortified island off the south coast. 

Gleninchaquin Park, nestling in a great bowl to the north of the Cahamassif. (community thoughts requested on the walking quality here!)

Accommodation on Beara is generally plentiful and good.​

Please visit our friends Hillwalk Tours’ website – see ‘links’ at end for more information on walking here.

The South-west gets a lot of rain, plus cloud/fog and occasional winter snow on high ground. Take great care with wayfinding in foggy/mist/cloudy conditions, indeed the mountains aren’t much fun if you won’t be able to see! There is little shelter on the mountains, either from sun or rain. Be prepared, both mentally and with the right kit.

Please help us by making suggestions and sending photos! Thank you!