Lochnagar and Loch Muick
Key information: Lochnagar and Loch Muick
This walk climbs from the foot of the magnificent, glacial Loch Muick to a horseshoe of forbidding crags around a bleak high tarn.
The high Lochnagar ridge has superb views of the Cairngorms and the moorlands of the Balmoral estate. A steep track drops, beside beautiful waterfalls, back down to the royal lodge on the shore of Lock Muick.
There is also a number of fabulous walks in the Loch Muick area, including a circuit of the lake and trails up onto the high plateaux around it.
Lochnngar is a tough mountain walk. Come prepared.
- Walkopedia rating86.5
- Natural interest16.5
- Human interest7
- Negative points0
- Total rating86.5
- Length: Variable (Lochnagar 6 hrs)
- Maximum Altitude: 1,135m
- Level of Difficulty: Variable
Lochnagar is a bit schizophrenic. At times, it is sinister and gloomy, a dour and capricious old grandee with its dark (thousand foot) cliffs hunched around the lonely eponymous loch at its base and the bleak, monochrome moorland rolling away to its south. Then the sun emerges and the same moorland becomes a delicate patchwork of bright greens and browns, the ridges now receding into delicate distant blues. But it always dominates mid Deeside, always present even if frequently hidden in low cloud. It is the highest point for miles around, with huge views in all directions.
Lochnagar is at the heart of the Balmoral estate, where the Royal Family escapes each summer from the duties and formality of the south and the area is redolent of royal associations, with Queen Victoria and Prince Charles in particular. And Lord Byron loved it:
"...England thy beauties are tame and domestic
To one who has roved o'er the mountains afar
Oh for the crags that are wild and majestic
The steep frowning glories of the dark Loch na Garr."
The area is now a wildlife reserve, home to eagles, ptarmigan, otters, mountain hares and red squirrels, as well as a permanently too-large population of red deer which, reserve or not, still have to be culled each year. In a deep, narrow glen to the south lies Loch Muick, a textbook example of the effects of glaciation and as moody and unpredictable as its great neighbour to the north. The whole area is lovingly maintained by the Balmoral Estate.
Lochnagar is usually approached from Glen Muick to the south. The walk begins by crossing the wide, boggy valley bottom, a lung-opening 20 minute tramp between peaty pools, banks of heather and bogs of impossibly bright green moss. It then climbs through a pleasing stand of large pines, with sunny, grassy glades between patches of crunchy pine needles, before emerging onto the bare hillside and starting the real climb.
The path climbs steadily through beautiful country beside a little burn for an hour or so. Gradually, the moorland across Glen Muick, and the ridges beyond, come into view.
At a high pass, you get the first big views north across the Dee Valley to the high Cairngorms. Turning left, you wind slowly up a long field of broken granite boulders to a high, bare shoulder between the summit ridge and the Meikle Pap. This is a favourite lunch spot, with a fine view down into the cauldron, where the peak-base loch sulks, dour and grey, beneath the tremendous cliffs of the curving summit ridge.
Then comes the hard bit, although it really isn?t too bad; 20 minutes of mildly unpleasant scramble up a steep slope of broken granite boulders to a cairn on the broken summit plateau. The track follows the rim of the great chasm round to the west, dipping and winding up round the back and onto the bare rock of the final ridge, to the final tor of vast weather-broken boulders. Nestle into sheltered crevices and admire the huge views.
Then it is the long tramp home. You can retrace your steps, or head almost due south to Loch Muick, then walk out along its shore, a longer route, but unforgettably beautiful. The path descends over heather moor, which slowly folds into the upper waters of the Glas-Altt burn. Scramble down beside a spectacular waterfall through great banks of imperial purple heather, gratefully reaching the lakeside and level ground in a stand of fine mature pines that shelter a small royal lodge, snug on a golden little beach by the lakeside. Turn left along a well-maintained track, and trudge out along the lakeside.
A shorter alternative is to turn hard left at the high pass and traverse south-west across high moorland before dropping down to Loch Muick by the Glass-Altt burn.
Loch Muick is an exceptional place, an often pewter, then sparklingly purple-and-blue reflecting, sheet between the dramatically steep hillsides of a classic glacial gouge. The heather can seem particularly bright here, and the lakeside is dotted with birch and rowans. You will be unlucky not to see a large group of deer, and we have seen golden eagles several times. There are numerous excellent walks around Loch Muick, including a 10 mile circuit of the lake, which can be extended by trails up from the lake to higher tarns, (the upper Dubh Loch under dark crags in particular) and tracks onto the high hills to the south-west, including the Capel Mounth track to Glen Cova.
The wide glen below the lake, with its river winding through bright boggy grassland, is also very lovely.
For further general and practical information see our Cairngorms page.
WILLIAM MACKESY'S ACCOUNT
of this walk
The grey precipices of Lochnagar loom high above the river Dee as it winds, dark and peaty, out of its highland glen into gentler territory. It is the highest point for miles around, with huge views in all directions, as far as the sea some 30 miles to the south-east and Ben Nevis some 65 miles to the south-west. Nearer at hand, the wild moors and rocky peaks of the high Cairngorms dominate the northwestern skyline.
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Safety and problems: All walks have inherent risks and potential problems, and many of the walks featured on this website involve significant risks, dangers and problems. Problems of any sort can arise on any walk. This website does not purport to identify any (or all) actual or potential risks, dangers and problems that may relate to any particular walk.
Any person who is considering undertaking this walk should do careful research and make their own assessment of the risks, dangers and possible problems involved. They should also go to “Important information” for further important information.
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